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Was trägt man unterm Dirndl? Der ultimative Guide - Dirndl.com

What do you wear under a Dirndl? The ultimate guide

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Time to read 8 min

Your first Dirndl is bought and then comes the question every Oktoberfest newcomer asks herself: What do the girls actually wear under the Dirndl? How do you create that dreamy neckline? And what about the Petticoat and stockings? We tell you everything you need to know so you are perfectly prepared.



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The Dirndl BH, the secret of the perfect neckline

A proper Dirndl comes with the matching neckline. That is simply the rule. Classic Dirndl are cut so that they reveal a lot on top, and that is exactly what creates the special charm. It should hint at a lot but hide nothing, that is the art of it.


A well fitting neckline is the be all and end all of wearing a Dirndl. And this is where the clever Dirndl BH comes into play. This little wonder works incredible magic and is the reason why some girls look as if they stepped straight out of a Trachten magazine.


Higher necklines and high buttoned blouses are also on trend, especially with vintage Dirndl, but even then the bust needs to be well supported. The right underwear simply makes the difference.

Washed Lederhosen

What is a Dirndl BH?

A Dirndl BH has been developed specifically for the Dirndl. Since both the Dirndl and the blouse have a wide and deep neckline, the bra has to be cut so that it shows off the bust perfectly within exactly this visible area.


The shape of the Dirndl BH resembles a balconette bra: both have straps set far to the outside. Given the width of the neckline that is typical of Bavarian Tracht, this is absolutely necessary. While the balconette bra lifts the bust through its cut, the Dirndl BH is additionally padded.


The centre gore of a Dirndl BH is kept very small so that it does not peek out from under the Dirndl. Nobody wants the bra to become visible, that would be a real faux pas.

These are the most popular Dirndl BHs

The difference from a regular bra

The most striking difference between a regular bra and a Dirndl BH lies in the cup. A regular bra encloses the bust completely. The Dirndl BH, on the other hand, only has so called three quarter cups, which leaves the upper half of the bust visible.


While a regular bra mainly has a supporting function, shaping plays an important role with a Trachten bra. To form an attractive neckline, the bust is pushed up and towards the centre. The result: a beautiful round neckline that matches the Dirndl perfectly.

Important information about the Dirndl BH

Fabric, hem and fit: what to look for in Dirndl underwear

Not only the cut but also the fabric of the underwear determines how good the neckline looks in the end. The wrong fabric chafes, slips or shows through under the Dirndl.


Bra fabric: For the Dirndl BH, smooth fabrics such as microfibre or satin are recommended. Lacefabric can show through under the thin Dirndlbluse Choose white or nude so that the fabric does not show through.

Stockings and hem: With stockings or tights, the hem is decisive: it must not peek out from under the Dirndl hem. Skin coloured tights usually have a flat, invisible hem which is ideal for the Dirndl. White Trachten stockings are traditionally held with a garter under the hem of the Dirndl.

Petticoat fabric: A Petticoat made of tulle or chiffon (fabric) gives the Dirndl skirt the volume it needs without weighing it down. Make sure that the hem of the Petticoat is shorter than that of the Dirndl skirt, otherwise it peeks out at the bottom.

The balconette bra, the classic

The balconette bra was invented in the USA in 1935 but only found its way into fashion in the 1950s. This bra owes its name to its cut: the outer straps and the built in half cups lift the bust so that it looks a little like a balcony.


On a balconette bra the straps sit much further out than on a regular bra. The bust is additionally supported by underwires or half cups built into the base. At the same time the cut is worked so cleverly that the lifted bust looks full and round. Especially in small sizes, this effect is enhanced by the use of push up padding.


Thanks to its beautiful shaping, the balconette bra has become an all rounder under strapless tops or off the shoulder blouses. That is why the straps can be removed on most models.


Which cup size is a balconette bra suited for?

Women with a medium bust, meaning a B or C cup, are the perfect balconette wearers. Here the bra supports the optimal shaping of the bust best. It gives it a beautiful round shape and thereby makes the bust look a little larger.


It appears fuller but not heavier, and that is exactly the look most women aim for with a Dirndl. Smaller cup sizes also benefit from the balconette bra because its push up function creates more volume.


The Petticoat, more volume for your Dirndl

Almost forgotten in recent years, the Petticoat is currently making a big comeback at the Oktoberfest. But what exactly is a Petticoat?

The word itself is a French English mix of petit (small in French) and coat (Mantel in English). This little coat is a full, billowing underskirt made of many ruffled and lace trimmed tiers.


Man in clean Lederhosen

Which stockings go with the Dirndl?

This topic divides Dirndl wearers like hardly any other: Trachten stockings or tights under the Dirndl, yes or no?


Basically there are two camps in Trachten fashion: the original traditional Trachten, where authenticity is valued, and the classic fashion Dirndl.


A classic Dirndl of course also includes stockings, namely hand knitted white stockings held in the traditional way by garters or suspenders. This is the original style and for traditionalists the only true one.

Traditional vs. modern Trachten stockings

The fashion Dirndl, whether made of silk or cotton, which are so popular today at weddings, balls or folk festivals, take their cue from the typical films of the 1950s and 1960s. In those, women wore high heeled black pumps and real nylon stockings with the Dirndl.


So if you follow the fashion model of today’s Dirndl, skin coloured tights under the Dirndl are a must. If you go for a skin coloured skin coloured look, choose seamless stockings with a smooth hem so that no edge is visible under the Dirndl hem. There are certainly modern styles where cheeky Trachten ankle socks are worn with a girlish Dirndl, or long Trachten socks with a vintage look.


But as with so many things in life, the rule here is: whatever you like is allowed. Nobody at the Oktoberfest will judge you for whether you wear stockings or not. The main thing is that you feel comfortable.

Conclusion of the guide

The right underwear makes all the difference with the Dirndl. The most important points in brief:

A Dirndl BH creates the perfect neckline through three quarter cups and a push up function

The balconette bra is the classic and works especially well for B and C cups

A Petticoat gives the Dirndl more volume and accentuates the waist

Stockings are a matter of taste, from traditional white to modern skin coloured, everything is allowed

The most important rule: wear what you feel comfortable in


If you are looking for your perfect Dirndl underwear, feel free to drop by our store

Get your perfect Dirndl BHs now

Frequently asked questions

What do you wear under a Dirndl?

Under a Dirndl you wear a special Dirndl BH or balconette bra for the perfect neckline. Optionally, a Petticoat can be worn for more volume, plus stockings according to taste. The underwear should be skin coloured or white so that it does not show through.

Do I need a special bra for the Dirndl?

Yes, a regular bra usually does not work well with the Dirndl. A Dirndl BH has three quarter cups, straps set far to the outside and a very small centre gore. It shapes the neckline so that it fits the deep cut perfectly.


Which cup size do I need for a balconette bra?

Balconette bras work best with B and C cups. They give the bust a beautiful round shape and make it look a little larger. Smaller sizes also benefit from the push up function.

Do I need a Petticoat for the Dirndl?

A Petticoat is optional but highly recommended if you want to create more volume and a narrower waist. It gives the Dirndl the classic hourglass silhouette. Anyone who naturally has curvy hips can do without it.

Which stockings do you wear with the Dirndl?

That is a matter of taste. Traditionally you wear white hand knitted stockings with garters. The modern choice is skin coloured tights or Trachten ankle socks. Whatever you like and feel comfortable in is allowed.

Which fabric should the Dirndl BH have?

The Dirndl BH should be made of a smooth fabric such as microfibre or satin. Lace fabric can show through under a thin Dirndlbluse. Colour: white or nude so that the fabric does not show through the light coloured blouse. The gore of the bra must be so small that it stays invisible in the deep Dirndl neckline.

What should you keep in mind with skin coloured stockings under the Dirndl?

Skin coloured stockings or tights under the Dirndl should have as flat and invisible a hem as possible so that it does not peek out from under the Dirndl hem. Seamless models are ideal. The colour should really match your skin tone, so not too orange or grey. With a Dirndl that has a shorter skirt: use stockings with a silicone hold up band instead of a garter.

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