Trachtenweste for Men: Which Waistcoat Suits the Lederhose and the Outfit

The Trachtenweste is a sleeveless upper garment worn over the Trachten shirt. It is cut more closely than a Janker or a cardigan and closes at the front with buttons. Traditionally it is made of Loden (a fulled wool fabric), leather or fine woollen cloth.

When do you wear a waistcoat? The waistcoat serves several purposes:

• Formal look: A well-fitting waistcoat clearly lifts the overall impression. It signals that the wearer has made an effort.
• Practical: Unlike the Janker, the waistcoat does not restrict freedom of movement. Inside the tent it is warm enough, and outdoors you can still wear a jacket over it.
• Complete outfit: Trachten shirt plus Lederhose is a beginner outfit. Trachten shirt plus waistcoat plus Lederhose is a complete look.

When do you wear a waistcoat? At the Oktoberfest, marksmen's fairs, Trachten balls and weddings. At relaxed summer parties or in the beer garden the waistcoat is optional. The more festive the occasion, the more a good waistcoat matters. For all occasion questions there is more in our folk festival Trachten guide.

A short history: The Trachtenweste has its roots in the rural working clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries. Originally a practical garment for fieldwork, it developed into a fixed component of the Bavarian festive Tracht. Today it is the link between traditional craftsmanship and contemporary Trachten fashion.

Combining waistcoat and Lederhose is not an exact science, but there are clear guidelines:

With the short Lederhose: A medium-brown or dark-brown Lederhose goes with almost any waistcoat. A green Loden waistcoat is the classic and always works. Grey or anthracite waistcoats are more modern and suit light-brown Lederhosen particularly well. Dark blue as a waistcoat colour looks elegant and contrasts nicely with light brown. Choose a waistcoat that shares at least one colour with your Trachten shirt or the checked pattern.

With the Kniebundhose: With the Kniebundhose for weddings or balls the rule is: fine materials. A leather or velvet waistcoat in dark brown, burgundy or dark green is the first choice. A plain Loden waistcoat works too, but looks less festive. Coordinating with the Trachtenjanker is important if you wear both.

Colour combination rules:

• Brown Lederhose: green, grey, dark blue, anthracite as the waistcoat
• Black Lederhose: grey, burgundy, dark green, beige as the waistcoat
• Light-brown Lederhose: dark green, navy blue, anthracite as the waistcoat
• Fawn-brown/buckskin: dark brown, forest green, burgundy as the waistcoat

What to avoid: Waistcoat and Lederhose in the same brown, that looks monotonous. Too many colours at once also look busy. The basic rule for the complete Trachten outfit: at most three colours (shirt, waistcoat, Lederhose), one of them neutral (brown, grey, black). You will find the matching Lederhose in our shop.

Loden waistcoats and Trachtenjanker are robust garments that, with the right care, last for many decades. A few basic rules:

Cleaning Loden: Loden should not be washed regularly. After wearing, let it air out well, ideally overnight on a coat hanger outdoors or in a well-ventilated room. Light stains can often be dabbed off with a damp cloth (do not rub). More stubborn stains: a professional. Never in the washing machine, unless the label expressly allows it.

Cardigans: Turn wool cardigans inside out and wash them at 30 degrees on the wool programme, or by hand. Never spin them. To dry, lay them out flat, do not hang them, since wool sags under its own weight while drying and stretches.

Storing: Store folded, do not hang on a hanger. Woollen clothing on a coat hanger loses its shape at the shoulders over time. For the off-season store it in a fabric box with lavender sachets or cedar wood, which keeps moths away without chemical agents. More tips for the entire Trachten wardrobe: storing Dirndl and Tracht.

Buttons: Staghorn buttons are robust but sensitive to moisture. After wearing in the rain, briefly rub them down with a dry cloth. Have loose buttons sewn back on immediately before they fall off completely. A tailor sews them back on in a few minutes.

The Trachtenweste is only one part of the Trachten outfit. Only the interplay of all components decides the overall impression. The right style connects waistcoat, shirt and Lederhose into a coherent look.

Classic Trachten outfit: Dark-brown Lederhose, white or blue-white checked Trachten shirt, green Loden waistcoat with staghorn buttons. This is the timeless Bavarian style that always works. Classic Trachten hats or Haferl shoes round off the Trachten outfit.

Modern Trachten outfit: Light-brown Lederhose, checked shirt in strong colours, anthracite or dark-grey waistcoat made of wool or Loden. This style looks young and fresh without losing the traditional character.

Festive Trachten outfit: Kniebundhose, white Trachten shirt, velvet waistcoat or leather waistcoat in burgundy or dark green, Trachtenjanker on top. This style is suited to weddings, Trachten balls and marksmen's galas.

Rule for every Trachten outfit: always tuck the shirt into the trousers, combine at most three colours, and the style of the waistcoat should suit the occasion. The rest is a matter of taste.